Kigali, Rwanda: My first impressions 20 Years Later

Kigali, Rwanda, my first impressions

Kigali, Rwanda

I love to visit places I haven’t visited before.

But once in a while, I go back to a place I have been either because I really liked it the first time, or there have been some really significant changes since the last time I was there.

Case in point is Cuba. A country that I first visited in 2012. Today, obviously a lot has changed and I’d like to return one more time.

Rwanda is another one, I last visited in 1998.

So going back 20 years later was surreal. Felt like I was meeting her for the first time.

What's Covered in This Article

Kigali is squeaky clean

I transversed the entire capital – it’s not that big – from end to end and didn’t see a single piece of trash dumped by the road side.

On a random day in Kigali, I took the picture you see above of Telecom House, Kigali – the equivalent of GPO in Nairobi. And It’s not like Obama was visiting or anything. For us here in Nairobi even when whoever is visiting streets hazijawahi n’gara hivi.

And this perfection goes beyond the physical.

Even in their interactions with one another. People here speak in hush hush. No loud laughter, shouting haphazardly and raising voices all over.

The plastic ban is real

I had heard of the plastic ban in Rwanda.

Even here in Kenya the plastic ban is under effect but it is not uncommon for a stray plastic bag to entangle your feet as you go about your business. Even in our own homes we still have a few of them (lift your hand up if you’re guilty)

In Rwanda, you can’t even go beyond the airport with a ka jwala.

Like Rwandans take this sh*t seriously.

By visiting Kigali, I, for the first time experienced what a 100% life without plastic feels like.

In case you’re wondering, It feels good 🙂

Booking.com

There’s a budding restaurant/hotel/night life scene

Compared to when I last visited Rwanda in 1998, I must admit that the scene has changed.

I was impressed by the budding restaurant/hotel/nightlife scene in Kigali.

The night life is also amazing.

I had a fun time.

There are tonnes of restaurants to choose from. Both high end and average, serving both local and international cuisines.

Major hotel chains have also started making a presence in Kigali such as: Marriott, Park Inn, Radisson Blu, etc.

I stayed at the Park Inn, Kigali and had a memorable experience.

I also got a chance to eat at many different restaurants such as Heaven Restaurant & Boutique.

French is out of the ark in Rwanda

One thing that that has steered some people from Rwanda is the fear of not being able to communicate in French.

Well, I got news for you.

Everyone else in Rwanda speaks Kinyarwanda, a little English, and substantial Kiswahili (especially the younger population that sought refuge in neighboring countries post-genocide).

Beginning 2008, Rwanda said adieu to français and good morning to the English language.

However, a significant majority of the population that can still engage in passable French.

With these four languages, I’m sure you’ll most likely be spoiled for choice.

So don’t let the fear of language barrier deter you.

Not all Boda Boda riders are born of the same mother

Like I was shook to learn that kumbe there are Boda Boda riders born of a different mother from that of our Kenyan and Uganda counterparts.

With a different kinda DNA.

A DNA that is wired towards order, and safety, and sticking on the right side of the road.

Not once did I see a boda boda rider without a helmet, riding on the wrong side of the road or on pedestrian walkways, skipping traffic lights, abusing pedestrians, or meandering between cars.

Even the passengers wear helmets without needing to be coerced.

The 1996 Genocide may have been forgiven, but has not been forgotten

kigali genocide memorial museum

The museum vividly paints the picture (literally) of what happened during the 90 days of the genocide, and even takes you back to the events leading up to this atrocious event.

The extent of intolerance depicted to have existed then felt outrageously recent!

It was a lot to take in.

I detail my experience at the Kigali Genocide Museum in depth in another post.

Fortunately, outside of the museum, I didn’t feel any of this vibe or experience any outright display of hatred or bitterness between the Hutus and Tutsis.

In Kenya for instance, we’ve never, as a country at least – ever experienced anything half of this magnitude, yet the intolerance between tribes is just ridiculous.

It is so in your face you can’t even miss it…nkt!

This was a wake up call for me.

On the power of tolerance. But most importantly, of forgiveness.

Rwanda also hosts pieces of China’s economic and military footprints 

Kigali, Rwanda

Other than Kiswahili, this is probably the only other thing we have in common with our Rwandan brethren.

Lol!

Just like in Kenya and most of Africa, the amount of Chinese – funded housing units and commercial buildings, highways, and other infrastructure projects is almost eerie.

The Chinese influence in Rwanda didn’t go unnoticed.

I felt it in every corner I turned.

Verdict

Overall, my first impression of Kigali, 20 years later: Everything felt too perfect.

Not that I love chaos.

Actually, quite the contrary.

I am a law abiding citizen. I don’t like to break rules. Actually, I still can’t wrap my head around why we have traffic lights functioning, but still feel the itch to have 6 cops manning the roundabouts. Someone please break it down for me like a little babe.

I love order (except ordering my wardrobe).

But what I experienced in Kigali was out of this world (read Africa to be precise).

If you’ve been to Kenya you know why this was a big deal for me.

Now, I’m not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing.

That’s another entire blog post.

One thing is for sure though, if you’re someone who thrives in linear structures, in meticulousness, and/or in perfection, you would definitely have a breeze in this country.

I just doubt if that’s me.

Other than the cleanliness and general order in the city which is unmissable, I felt really boxed in Kigali.

Socially at least.

I am kinda LOUD. I have sufficient energy. When its time to talk, I want to talk, not whisper. If its time to laugh, I want to genuinely laugh, from my belly. When its time to fight, I want to go full on… 🙂

If you know me personally, you definitely understand what I mean.

I am the epitome of a sanguine. I thrive in uncertainty, and in pushing boundaries.

I didn’t feel this vibe in Kigali. But again, maybe it’s just me.

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Have you been to Kigali Rwanda? 

What was your experience like?

What were your first impressions?

Share with us in the comments below.